Virgil's Fine Goods + Scroop Patterns
Augusta Stays (1775-1790) Pattern || #1903H
Augusta Stays (1775-1790) Pattern || #1903H
Difficulty: Expert
The Augusta Stays are the perfect foundation to any late 18th century wardrobe. Patterned and based on numerous extant late 18th century stays with a sophisticated boning layout to help you achieve the fashionable silhouette of the late 1770s and 1780s.
Choose between detailed instructions on how to make the stays with period accurate materials and construction methods, or equally detailed instructions on making a simplified version using coutil and methods taken from modern theater and film costume construction. Or mix and match the two methods to get a historically look with less hand-sewing.
View A, the historically accurate pattern, features adjustable partial front lacing, full back lacing, three layers of construction fabrics, and tape binding. They can include an optional loose lining and optional taped seam finishes. View B, the simplified modern 'Theatrical' version, features a solid front piece, two layers of construction fabrics, metal lacing grommets, and bias binding, and an optional decorative outer layer. Both versions are spiral laced and use synthetic whalebone (German plastic boning).
In order to make fitting as easy as possible, the Augusta Stays come in two bust-to-waist ratio size sets. The ‘Straight’ size set has a 10” difference between un-corseted bust and corseted waist, and is best for those with less bust-to-waist difference, or those desiring less waist compression. The ‘Curvy’ size set has a 12” difference between un-corseted bust and corseted waist, and is best for those with more bust-to-waist difference, or those desiring more waist compression.
Size Chart:
PATTERN DOWNLOAD:
If you are interested in a downloadable pattern please follow this link
Pattern Specifications
Pattern Specifications
Full Historical Instructions Booklet: 26 pages
Full Theatrical Instructions Booklet: 14 pages
Fully Printed Pattern Pieces: 1 large page
Size Chart
Size Chart
Recommended Materials
Recommended Materials
The Historical version works well in with outer layers in tightly woven linen, worsted wool, and silk; support layers in midweight linen and linen buckram, and linings in lighter weight linens (including stripes and checks) and period accurate cotton prints.
The Theatrical version works well with an optional outer layer in midweight silk or decorative cottons, and support layers in midweight, very tightly woven, extremely stable, natural-fiber fabrics with no stretch or give, such as heavy poplin, cotton sateen, coutil, satin or brocaded coutil, ticking, mid-heavyweight linen, etc.
Research & Inspiration
Research & Inspiration
Here are some helpful links to the research and inspirations of this product:
- How to shorten an 18th century stays pattern (video)
- How to lengthen an 18th century stays pattern (video)
- How to adjust boning channel layouts (video)
- Making Linen Buckram: Gum Tragacanth vs Xanthan Gum (blog)
- Troubleshooting fit in 1780s stays (blog)
- How to add more bust space in the Augusta Stays (blog)
About the Models
About the Models
Paula is wearing View B: Theatrical stays are shown in Size 38 Curvy in vintage polished cotton chintz with layers in tightly woven midweight cotton and cotton coutil. They are bound in silk dupioni.
Amber is wearing View A: Historical in Size 38 Curvy in chocolate brown 100% wool twill. Her cap is the Annabel Cap with a single face ruffle. Her shift is available from Willoughby & Rose.
Cait is wearing View A: Historical in Size 46 Curvy in black wool twill. Her stays have been shortened 1". Her stays have additional tape reinforcing the lacings (instructions not included). Her shift is available from Willoughby & Rose.
Leimomi is wearing View A: Historical in Size 38 Straight in gilt linen.